Adjusting to lane conditions.
.
Ok,
you have the attitude, you have the equipment, you even
memorized Pam Fitts tutorial on converting spares. How come
you STILL can't bowl in that (&*&((*&^!! house in
your area? Adjusting to the ever changing lane conditions are
a constant challenge to every bowler. Unfortunately, there just
doesn't seem to be enough frames left to recoup after you've
finally found just the right spot to string those strikes.
How
can you adjust more quickly to a lane that never seems to be
the same from game to game? Professional bowlers need to
adjust very quickly to any lane condition. They cannot affort
to waste even a single frame trying to find "their
mark". How do they do it?
The
following is a response by Carl fogelin(CarlFogelin@nmr1.Cyanamid.COM
) to a poster that asked that very question, "How do I
adjust to oily and dry conditions?"
1)
Don't change the arrow you aim for, if you're changing your
starting board. As it was taught to me, bowling is a game of
triangulation. By keeping the arrow you aim for the same, you
get more consistent.
2)
If you hit left of the head pin, move left. If you hit right,
move right. Again, back to the triangulation. If you were to
draw a line between where you start and where you want your
ball to hit the pins, your arrow is probably a fulcrum point.
3)
You might consider shifting your line. Shifting means you
change to a different arrow and move your starting position an
equal amount of boards. This effectively changes your shot
from an inside to outside (or visa versa) shot (i.e., your
line is the same, but you are working with a different part of
the alley).
4)
If you are using a hard plastic ball (i.e., alley ball) and
you throw a hook, the effects of the oil can be really hard to
overcome. If the above suggestions don't work, you might
consider buying an appropriate ball.
Now,
an example of dealing with oil would probably be appropriate.
I'll use my style and apply the above suggestions:
I
own a Pearl Red Hammer, finger-tip grip with inserts, drilled
with 1 oz side weight, reverse pitch thumb -- basically its a
balled drilled to curve. I use this ball in medium to dry
conditions, but I could adjust for oily. I'm a right handed
bowler. My normal shot is: I stand on the 2nd dot (10th board)
with my left foot and aim at the 1st arrow (5th board).
Assuming
that I had to bowl in the oily conditions you're talking
about, my guess is that I would be lucky if my shot curved 2
boards. That means my normal shot would probably hit between
the 3 and 6 pins. I would first try and use the same 1st arrow
(#1), but move my starting position at least 5 and probably 7
boards to the right (#2). This should pivot my shot over to
the 1 and 3 pin pocket. Now, with my luck, I'd probably be
still hitting light and should move a couple more boards to my
right. The problem is that I don't have the room -- I'm
already throwing over the gutter. However, if I shifted my
line (#3), that problem would go away. So, I would change from
#1 arrow (5th board) to the #2 arrow (10th board) and move my
starting position from board #3 to #8. Then I'd adjust this
new line as appropriate.
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